Summary
Waves are created by the transfer of energy from the wind blowing across the surface of the sea
The size and strength of individual waves depends on the velocity and time that the wind has been blowing which in turn depends on the fetch
Waves move up the beach (swash) and back down again (backwash)
Waves can be divided into constructive waves and destructive waves
Waves approaching irregular coastlines are refracted
Coastal erosion occurs by wave pounding, hydraulic action, abrasion and corrosion
Wave transport occurs along the coast by longshore drift which moves beach material in a zig-zag pattern in a direction determined by the prevailing winds
Category