Textile Based Materials

This Section focuses on textile-based materials, which are used in a wide variety of applications ranging from clothing and interiors to industrial and medical uses. Understanding the properties of textiles and how they are produced is essential for Design and Technology. This guide covers key aspects such as material selection, forces and stresses, ecological and social footprint, manufacturing processes, and more.

Selecting Materials

When selecting textile materials, designers consider a variety of factors, depending on the intended use of the product. These include:

• Strength and durability: Fabrics need to be strong enough to withstand wear and tear. For example, denim is chosen for jeans due to its robustness, while nylon is used in outdoor gear for its strength and resistance to abrasion.
• Elasticity and flexibility: Some textiles, such as spandex or lycra, are chosen for their elasticity, which is important in activewear and sportswear.
• Breathability and moisture management: Fabrics like cotton and linen are known for their breathability, making them ideal for clothing in warm climates. Wool has moisture-wicking properties and can regulate temperature, which is why it is used for sweaters and outdoor clothing.
• Softness and comfort: Silk and cotton are valued for their soft, smooth feel, making them ideal for bed linens, underwear, and shirts.
• Aesthetic qualities: The texture, colour, and appearance of the fabric are also key. Velvet and satin are chosen for their luxurious appearance, while wool and tweed have distinctive textures that are often used in tailored clothing.
• Cost: Synthetic fibres like polyester and nylon are often cheaper than natural fibres like silk or wool, making them more suitable for mass-produced clothing and textiles.

The choice of material is guided by a balance between performance, aesthetics, and cost-effectiveness.

Forces and Stresses

Textile materials are exposed to various forces and stresses during their use, which can affect their performance:

• Tensile stress: When fabrics are pulled, they experience tensile stress. Nylon and polyester are used in applications like parachutes or tents because they are strong and can withstand tensile forces without tearing.
• Compressive stress: Textiles used in upholstery, like cotton or wool, experience compressive stress when weight is applied. They need to be durable enough to resist flattening over time.
• Shear stress: Fabrics in motion (e.g., nylon in outerwear) are often exposed to shear stress, which can cause them to stretch, tear, or deform. Spandex is often used in activewear for its resistance to shear forces.
• Bending stress: Fabrics experience bending stress when folded, draped, or worn. Silk and wool are soft and drape well, making them ideal for garments that need to hang fluidly, while stiffer fabrics like canvas are used for structured items such as bags and shoes.

Designers need to ensure that textile materials can withstand the expected forces during everyday use while maintaining their appearance and functionality.

Ecological and Social Footprint

The ecological and social footprint of textile materials is a crucial consideration in modern design, with growing awareness about sustainability:

• Ecological footprint: Natural fibres like cotton and wool have a smaller ecological footprint compared to synthetic fibres, but they still require large amounts of water, land, and pesticides. For example, conventional cotton is a water-intensive crop, while wool requires grazing land and the management of livestock. On the other hand, synthetic fibres such as polyester are made from petroleum-based resources, and their production releases significant CO2 emissions. However, recycled polyester helps mitigate this issue by reducing waste and conserving resources.
• Recyclability: Some textiles, like polyester, can be recycled into new fibres and garments, reducing the amount of waste in landfills. In contrast, natural fibres like wool and cotton are biodegradable, which can be beneficial in reducing environmental waste at the end of the material's life.
• Biodegradable materials: Hemp and linen are examples of natural fibres that are more environmentally friendly because they break down more easily than synthetic fibres. Tencel, made from wood pulp, is another biodegradable material that has a smaller ecological impact.
• Social footprint: Textile production, especially in developing countries, can raise significant social issues. These include low wages, poor working conditions, and exploitation of workers, particularly in the fast fashion industry. Ethical sourcing, fair trade practices, and transparent supply chains are essential to addressing these concerns.

Reducing the ecological and social footprint of textiles requires careful material selection, sustainable manufacturing practices, and a commitment to recycling and ethical production.

Sources and Origins

The origin of textile materials influences their properties, sustainability, and cost:

• Natural fibres: These fibres are sourced from plants, animals, or minerals. Key examples include:
• Cotton: Sourced from the cotton plant, primarily grown in warm climates. Cotton fibres are soft, breathable, and versatile, but the crop is water-intensive.
• Wool: Derived from sheep, wool is natural, renewable, and biodegradable, with excellent insulating properties.
• Silk: A natural protein fibre produced by silkworms, known for its smooth texture and luxurious feel. Silk is delicate but highly valued for high-end textiles.
• Linen: Made from the flax plant, linen is durable and breathable, often used in clothing and home textiles.
• Hemp: A highly sustainable fibre that is biodegradable, durable, and requires minimal water to grow.
• Synthetic fibres: These are man-made fibres derived from petrochemical products:
• Polyester: One of the most widely used synthetic fibres, often blended with natural fibres to enhance durability and reduce cost.
• Nylon: Known for its strength and elasticity, nylon is used in a variety of applications, from clothing to ropes and industrial textiles.
• Acrylic: A synthetic fibre designed to mimic the properties of wool. It is soft, lightweight, and used in knitwear and blankets.
• Regenerative fibres: These are derived from renewable sources but undergo chemical processing to create the fibre. Tencel (lyocell) is an example, made from wood pulp and produced in a closed-loop process that recycles water and solvents.

Understanding the origin and sourcing of textiles is vital for ensuring sustainability and ethical practices in product design.

Use of Material Properties in Commercial Products

Textile materials are selected for their specific properties, which make them suitable for a wide range of commercial products:

• Clothing: Cotton, polyester, and wool are common materials for garments. For instance, polyester is often used in sportswear because it is moisture-wicking and durable, while cotton is used for casual wear due to its softness and breathability.
• Upholstery: Fabrics like velvet, leather, and cotton are used in furniture for their comfort, durability, and aesthetic appeal. Leather is particularly valued for its luxurious appearance and longevity.
• Bedding and textiles: Linen and cotton are commonly used in bed linens and towels because they are soft, absorbent, and breathable.
• Outdoor gear: Fabrics such as nylon, polyester, and Gore-Tex are used in tents, jackets, and backpacks due to their water resistance, durability, and lightweight properties.
• Industrial applications: Kevlar and carbon fibre are used in high-performance applications like bulletproof vests, helmets, and car parts because of their strength and resistance to abrasion.

By understanding the material properties, designers can match the right textile to the needs of their specific product.

Stock Forms, Types, and UK Sizes

Textiles are available in various forms and sizes depending on their intended use:

• Rolls: Fabrics are typically sold in rolls, with widths usually ranging from 90cm to 150cm. The length of the roll can vary, but it is typically between 20m to 100m, depending on the material.
• Sheets: For specific applications, like upholstery or curtains, textiles can be cut into sheets of standard sizes (e.g., 140cm x 200cm for curtains or 180cm x 280cm for bedding).
• Fibres and yarns: Fibres are the raw material that is spun into yarns. Yarn is typically measured in denier (thickness) or tex (weight per unit length). For instance, a worsted yarn is fine and smooth, used for high-quality wool fabrics.
• Threads: Textiles may also come in threads for stitching or weaving. Thread types can include cotton, silk, nylon, and polyester, each chosen for its strength and appearance.

Stock forms are chosen to suit the production process, whether it’s for garment manufacture, upholstery, or industrial applications.

Scales of Production

The scale of production plays a crucial role in determining the type of textile material and the manufacturing processes used:

• One-off production: This might involve bespoke clothing or custom textiles for specific projects, such as upholstery or fashion design. High-quality fabrics like silk or wool are used for one-off items like evening wear or tailored suits.
• Batch production: This could involve the production of limited runs of clothing, such as seasonal collections or home textiles. Fabrics like cotton and polyester are often used in batch production, with designs being printed or dyed.
• Mass production: Common in the fashion and textiles industries, mass production involves large-scale manufacturing of products like clothing, bedding, and upholstery. Polyester, nylon, and cotton are popular choices due to their low cost, durability, and ease of processing.

The scale of production influences material choice, as well as manufacturing methods and cost-effectiveness.

Tools, Equipment, and Processes

Working with textiles involves various tools and equipment depending on the material and production process:

• Cutting tools: Scissors, rotary cutters, and laser cutters are used to cut fabric accurately.
• Sewing machines: Essential for stitching textiles together, these machines can sew straight, zigzag, or overlock stitches, depending on the desired finish.
• Weaving looms: Used for creating woven fabrics by interlacing threads in a specific pattern.
• Knitting machines: For creating knitted fabrics, often used for clothing and garments made from wool, cotton, or synthetic fibres.
• Printing and dyeing equipment: Textile printing machines and dye vats are used to apply patterns, colours, and finishes to fabrics.

Understanding the tools and processes is important for achieving the desired material properties and product quality.

Commercial Processes

Common commercial processes in textile manufacturing include:

• Weaving: A process where two sets of yarns are interlaced to create woven fabrics like tweed, denim, and satin.
• Knitting: Yarn is interlooped to form knitted fabrics like jersey or ribbing, used in T-shirts and sweaters.
• Spinning: Fibres are spun into yarns, which are then woven or knitted to create fabrics.
• Printing and dyeing: Fabrics are coloured or patterned using screen printing, heat transfer, or sublimation processes.
• Finishing: After textiles are woven or knitted, they undergo finishing processes such as stiffening, softening, or waterproofing to improve texture, appearance, and performance.

These commercial processes enable the large-scale production of a wide range of textile products, from everyday clothing to specialised industrial materials.

Summary

Textile materials are central to design and technology, offering a vast range of properties that can be matched to various applications. By understanding the selection criteria, ecological impact, material properties, and production processes, designers can make informed decisions that optimise both function and sustainability in textile-based products.